Nine hours of torture on an airplane and I am back in Philly where the weather sucks!
My last day in Rome was spent in classic fashion-- workout with Aramis and then walking, walking, walking from Trastevere up to Piazza del Popolo and then back again. I stopped at our favorite wine bar for my daily end of the day ritual of a glass of prosecco. I was the only one there at 7 pm so I had a chance to talk at length with Fulvia, the bartender. It turns out her dream is to make beer!
After dinner--spaghetti con vongole--with Christine, I head home across the Ponte Sisto for the last time. There is a crescent moon in a sapphire sky and a party in the the streets of Trastevere. Arriverderci Roma.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Home again, Rome again
Jane and returned to Rome this afternoon after our sybaritic interlude in Positano, a magical spot of blue sea and blue sky and winding roads climbing up and down the cliffs. As much as we enjoyed being there, it felt really good to come back to Rome and Vicolo del Cedro 12.
We dropped our bags and headed out to the streets, now wonderfully familiar, for lunch and some last minute shopping. It’s hard to believe that I have only one day left to my incredible Roman adventure. And to think this was all Steve’s idea. The man did have a vision which I have done by best to fulfill.
We dropped our bags and headed out to the streets, now wonderfully familiar, for lunch and some last minute shopping. It’s hard to believe that I have only one day left to my incredible Roman adventure. And to think this was all Steve’s idea. The man did have a vision which I have done by best to fulfill.
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Escape to Positano
How is it possible that Steve has lost weight and I have gained a minimum of five pounds since coming to Rome?
Oh, well. I am in Positano celebrating my birthday in grand style with Jane. Having jettisoned our husbands, we couldn’t decide how to spend a few days on our own after several forced marches in Rome. We rejected going to Paris not wanting to face the hassle of going to the airport. We thought about going to Puglia, the region on the heel of the Italian boot, but neither of us felt like driving six to eight hours to get there. Finally, Jane had the inspired idea of taking the train to Napoli and then going to Positano on the Amalfi coast. So here we are at the gorgeous and luxurious hotel Il San Pietro (after a stop at Pompeii--an amazing experience) where I stupidly stepped on the scale and got the bad news. The damage is, I believe, a minimum of five pounds since hotel scales are always light; the hotel doesn't want you to stop eating all their food.
Which we did last night since one of the reasons we chose this hotel was due to the one star Michelin rating for the restaurant. (On the basis of one meal, I would say the rating is justified.) At dinner, we righteously shared a pasta--something fabulous with spinach, onions and cheese topped by a zucchini blossom filled with cheese and then lightly fried—and an order of red mullet with capers and tomatoes. We did drink a bottle of amazing red wine (less fattening than white) recommended by the sommelier but passed over the dolci and ordered a frugal dessert of fragolini--tiny wild strawberries senza cream or sugar.
However, the “diet” didn’t last too long. Immediately after the fragolini, the waiter presented me with a decadent and delicious confection of pastry and cream and raspberries complete with birthday candle. (Thank god there was no singing.) How could I resist?
Oh, well. I am in Positano celebrating my birthday in grand style with Jane. Having jettisoned our husbands, we couldn’t decide how to spend a few days on our own after several forced marches in Rome. We rejected going to Paris not wanting to face the hassle of going to the airport. We thought about going to Puglia, the region on the heel of the Italian boot, but neither of us felt like driving six to eight hours to get there. Finally, Jane had the inspired idea of taking the train to Napoli and then going to Positano on the Amalfi coast. So here we are at the gorgeous and luxurious hotel Il San Pietro (after a stop at Pompeii--an amazing experience) where I stupidly stepped on the scale and got the bad news. The damage is, I believe, a minimum of five pounds since hotel scales are always light; the hotel doesn't want you to stop eating all their food.
Which we did last night since one of the reasons we chose this hotel was due to the one star Michelin rating for the restaurant. (On the basis of one meal, I would say the rating is justified.) At dinner, we righteously shared a pasta--something fabulous with spinach, onions and cheese topped by a zucchini blossom filled with cheese and then lightly fried—and an order of red mullet with capers and tomatoes. We did drink a bottle of amazing red wine (less fattening than white) recommended by the sommelier but passed over the dolci and ordered a frugal dessert of fragolini--tiny wild strawberries senza cream or sugar.
However, the “diet” didn’t last too long. Immediately after the fragolini, the waiter presented me with a decadent and delicious confection of pastry and cream and raspberries complete with birthday candle. (Thank god there was no singing.) How could I resist?
Sunday, May 4, 2008
The Biddies do Rome
Which means the biddies eat well, walk a lot and have a good time without worrying about the geezers i.e. Steve and Bob.
Jane claims I have led her on two Bhutan death marches but I swear we have just done my normal everyday circumlocution of il centro storico. What counts is the meals. Yesterday lunch at La Rosetta, a top seafood restaurant outside the Pantheon, followed by dinner at Rosciolo, an amazing enoteca and deli just across the bridge near Campo dei Fiori. Today, lunch at Osteria Margutta on an art filled street near the Piazza del Popolo followed by dinner at Le Mani in Pasta in the quiet part of Trastevere.
Roma by the glass, the title of a new book by Ellen Solms with commentary by Jane Toll.
Jane claims I have led her on two Bhutan death marches but I swear we have just done my normal everyday circumlocution of il centro storico. What counts is the meals. Yesterday lunch at La Rosetta, a top seafood restaurant outside the Pantheon, followed by dinner at Rosciolo, an amazing enoteca and deli just across the bridge near Campo dei Fiori. Today, lunch at Osteria Margutta on an art filled street near the Piazza del Popolo followed by dinner at Le Mani in Pasta in the quiet part of Trastevere.
Roma by the glass, the title of a new book by Ellen Solms with commentary by Jane Toll.
Thursday, May 1, 2008
May Day, part 2
This is May Day in Rome.
The city is closed up except for the hordes of tourists, both Italian and foreign, tramping around in weather warm enough for tank tops and flip flops. I’ve decided that German tourists wear the ugliest clothes followed closely by the British in their sensible shoes and Americans with backpacks. The French somehow always manage to look chic even when carrying maps and guidebooks.
All the stores are closed except for those selling souvenirs. Traffic is so light on the streets you can cross the big streets without fear that a kamikaze motorcyclist will knock you down but the big piazzas are wall to wall people. The performance artists and venders must be raking it in today.
The city is closed up except for the hordes of tourists, both Italian and foreign, tramping around in weather warm enough for tank tops and flip flops. I’ve decided that German tourists wear the ugliest clothes followed closely by the British in their sensible shoes and Americans with backpacks. The French somehow always manage to look chic even when carrying maps and guidebooks.
All the stores are closed except for those selling souvenirs. Traffic is so light on the streets you can cross the big streets without fear that a kamikaze motorcyclist will knock you down but the big piazzas are wall to wall people. The performance artists and venders must be raking it in today.
May Day
May 1. A huge holiday in Italy. I woke early to an eerie Sunday like silence. No sounds of school kids outside my window, of cars or motorcycles or people on the street. I haven’t been out yet but I am curious to see what shops and restaurants will be open today.
Yesterday I had a glorious, leisurely time all on my own in Rome. I wandered all through il centro storico with an occasional stop into a church or store for a quick look around. I took a break at the Piazza del Popolo for a glass of prosecco and some serious people watching. Then, late in the day I went to the Palazzo Massimo for my daily dose of culture. Incredible! On the first floor, rooms and rooms of ancient Roman sculpture. And then on the second floor, a truly astounding collection of mosaic pavements and wall paintings some dating from the time of Augustus. Almost too much to absorb in one visit.
It was nearly dark when I got back to Trastevere but I ended the day with a glass or red wine at our favorite wine bar before finally going home.
Yesterday I had a glorious, leisurely time all on my own in Rome. I wandered all through il centro storico with an occasional stop into a church or store for a quick look around. I took a break at the Piazza del Popolo for a glass of prosecco and some serious people watching. Then, late in the day I went to the Palazzo Massimo for my daily dose of culture. Incredible! On the first floor, rooms and rooms of ancient Roman sculpture. And then on the second floor, a truly astounding collection of mosaic pavements and wall paintings some dating from the time of Augustus. Almost too much to absorb in one visit.
It was nearly dark when I got back to Trastevere but I ended the day with a glass or red wine at our favorite wine bar before finally going home.
Monday, April 28, 2008
I'm still here
Steve left this morning for 1520 Spruce Street but I am still clinging by my fingertips to Vicolo del Cedro, 12. We have had the most glorious three months together in the most beautiful city. And now I am blessed with five days alone and perfect spring weather.
After kissing my honey goodbye, I headed off to the gym for another session with Aramis. Who needs the Sporting Club and all those yuppies? Later in the afternoon, I hiked all the way through Testaccio to San Paolo Fuori Le Mura, yet another grandiose basilica with a veritable forest of huge granite columns and gorgeous mosaics. On the way home, I stopped to buy dinner—fresh fava beans, fabulous aged pecorino from Volpetti and, for dessert, unbelievably fragrant fresh strawberries.
Philadephia seems very far away.
After kissing my honey goodbye, I headed off to the gym for another session with Aramis. Who needs the Sporting Club and all those yuppies? Later in the afternoon, I hiked all the way through Testaccio to San Paolo Fuori Le Mura, yet another grandiose basilica with a veritable forest of huge granite columns and gorgeous mosaics. On the way home, I stopped to buy dinner—fresh fava beans, fabulous aged pecorino from Volpetti and, for dessert, unbelievably fragrant fresh strawberries.
Philadephia seems very far away.
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