Steve left this morning for 1520 Spruce Street but I am still clinging by my fingertips to Vicolo del Cedro, 12. We have had the most glorious three months together in the most beautiful city. And now I am blessed with five days alone and perfect spring weather.
After kissing my honey goodbye, I headed off to the gym for another session with Aramis. Who needs the Sporting Club and all those yuppies? Later in the afternoon, I hiked all the way through Testaccio to San Paolo Fuori Le Mura, yet another grandiose basilica with a veritable forest of huge granite columns and gorgeous mosaics. On the way home, I stopped to buy dinner—fresh fava beans, fabulous aged pecorino from Volpetti and, for dessert, unbelievably fragrant fresh strawberries.
Philadephia seems very far away.
Monday, April 28, 2008
Sunday, April 27, 2008
In vino veritas
Well, Bob and Jane are now on their way to Sicily leaving us all alone except for the five extra pounds I am sure we are carrying around now.
The last six days have been an eating and drinking marathon interspersed with the occasional long walk, mainly searching for artichokes. Certain important discoveries were made. For example, it is possible—at least for Bob—to eat pasta and pizza at the same meal. And, yes, one can eat a huge lunch with two tankards of white wine and five hours later go on to eat dinner and drink two bottles of red wine.
Steve leaves tomorrow and I am putting myself on the wagon—well, maybe just a glass of wine at sunset—for the week I am here by myself.
The last six days have been an eating and drinking marathon interspersed with the occasional long walk, mainly searching for artichokes. Certain important discoveries were made. For example, it is possible—at least for Bob—to eat pasta and pizza at the same meal. And, yes, one can eat a huge lunch with two tankards of white wine and five hours later go on to eat dinner and drink two bottles of red wine.
Steve leaves tomorrow and I am putting myself on the wagon—well, maybe just a glass of wine at sunset—for the week I am here by myself.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
One is silver and the other gold
I’ve lived here for almost three months but new discoveries are still possible.
Yesterday while doing the the grand tour of il centro storico with Bob and Jane, we went into the church on the Piazza della Minerva and discovered a chapel with delicate frescos by Filippino Lippi I hadn’t seen before. After the requisite period of oohing and aahing, we went up to the roof of the hotel next door where new surprises awaited us—a fabulous view over the Pantheon and a refreshing new cocktail of Aperol, prosecco and soda water, a perfect addition to the menu in Maine. It’s a beautiful orange color and goes really well with Rome’s terracotta colors not to mention a plate of prosciutto and sweet melon or perhaps a caprese salad of mozzarella, tomato and basil.
And then there's the thrill and the luxury of revisiting old discoveries again. Like stopping in to the Palazzo Barbarini for a quick session with amazing paintings by Bronzino and Carvaggio. Or eating at Piperno for the third time and ordering carciofi alla guida yet again. Absolutely the best in Rome!
Yesterday while doing the the grand tour of il centro storico with Bob and Jane, we went into the church on the Piazza della Minerva and discovered a chapel with delicate frescos by Filippino Lippi I hadn’t seen before. After the requisite period of oohing and aahing, we went up to the roof of the hotel next door where new surprises awaited us—a fabulous view over the Pantheon and a refreshing new cocktail of Aperol, prosecco and soda water, a perfect addition to the menu in Maine. It’s a beautiful orange color and goes really well with Rome’s terracotta colors not to mention a plate of prosciutto and sweet melon or perhaps a caprese salad of mozzarella, tomato and basil.
And then there's the thrill and the luxury of revisiting old discoveries again. Like stopping in to the Palazzo Barbarini for a quick session with amazing paintings by Bronzino and Carvaggio. Or eating at Piperno for the third time and ordering carciofi alla guida yet again. Absolutely the best in Rome!
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
Perle Mesta comes to Rome
Sitting around waiting for Bob and Jane to arrive. So what else is new?
The last few days the weather has been positively bipolar. Brilliantly sunny and warm enough at times to wear one of my new pair of sandals (!) and then a tremendous thunderstorm with dramatic and startling lightening and torrential rainfall.
Last night, we entertained at home. Aramis, my gorgeous and lovely Cuban trainer, and his girlfriend came over for drinks. We polished off a bottle of white wine from Sicilia with cheese and my new obsession, fava beans. Conversation was interesting since his girlfriend spoke no English but I gamely tried to talk Italian and some how it worked.
A little later, we all walked out to a near by wine bar and finished off the evening with a bottle of delicious red wine from Sardegna and some more cheese and salami. Steve claims I fell asleep with my glasses on and holding my book. This I don’t remember.
The last few days the weather has been positively bipolar. Brilliantly sunny and warm enough at times to wear one of my new pair of sandals (!) and then a tremendous thunderstorm with dramatic and startling lightening and torrential rainfall.
Last night, we entertained at home. Aramis, my gorgeous and lovely Cuban trainer, and his girlfriend came over for drinks. We polished off a bottle of white wine from Sicilia with cheese and my new obsession, fava beans. Conversation was interesting since his girlfriend spoke no English but I gamely tried to talk Italian and some how it worked.
A little later, we all walked out to a near by wine bar and finished off the evening with a bottle of delicious red wine from Sardegna and some more cheese and salami. Steve claims I fell asleep with my glasses on and holding my book. This I don’t remember.
Sunday, April 20, 2008
The last supper
Last night, Christine took Steve, me and Jeff to what she described as a simple trattoria serving traditional Roman food. No menu. The owner just recites a short list of pastas for the first course and then a few meats and vegetables for the secondi.
It was when the plate of heart and lungs and artichokes was placed on the table, all looking very dark and green and not very appetizing, that I realized that this was the first night of Passover. Oy vey, my mother would not have been happy. She would be pleased to know that I did not eat the heart and lungs but that I did drink four glasses of red wine—Brunello not Manaschevitz.
It was when the plate of heart and lungs and artichokes was placed on the table, all looking very dark and green and not very appetizing, that I realized that this was the first night of Passover. Oy vey, my mother would not have been happy. She would be pleased to know that I did not eat the heart and lungs but that I did drink four glasses of red wine—Brunello not Manaschevitz.
Friday, April 18, 2008
They should pay me to live here
I should be doing this for a living. At age 60, I’ve got a whole new career—personal cicerone in the Eternal City. I can thread my way through the streets of Rome leading you to the Pantheon, Piazza Navona on to Fontana di Trevi and Piazza da Spagna, the Piazza del Popolo and back. I know what churches to stop into to see the Carvaggios, where to get the best gelato and I can do this all while spouting off lots of random information with an air of great authority.
My map is in tatters but I’m not buying a new one. I’ve got three more weeks and I’m finally off book.
My map is in tatters but I’m not buying a new one. I’ve got three more weeks and I’m finally off book.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Excursion
Yesterday we finally got off our asses and out of Rome for the day. We drove to Tuscany on the sea to look at a villa with Alex, our rental agent here in Rome, and his friend Roberto, owner of the villa.
The villa is lovely and right on the ocean although the countryside around it isn’t nearly as pretty or as interesting as the areas inland in Tuscany we’ve looked at. It was a gorgeous day and we sat outside in the garden enjoying the view while Roberto, an excellent cook, whipped up a delicious lunch of pasta with eggplant. Throughout the day, Alex’s cell phone kept going off—his ring tone is the sound of car siren!—and we listened in awe as he effortlessly switched between French, Spanish, English and then back to rapid Italian. All this while driving, too. He says his Portuguese is even better than his Spanish and he can speak a little Chinese having lived in Shanghai for a few years.
On the way home, we stopped at the near by town of Talamone to look at the marina, the usual scene with fisherman repairing their nets. When we stopped for coffee in Porte Ercole I had my first maroconini, a coffee, cream and chocolate confection that was absolutely delicious and definitely gave me a buzz. For a moment, I considered making this new drink a regular feature of my day but then I thought hey, I've given up diet coke why take on another possible addiction. And, then, there's always prosecco.
The villa is lovely and right on the ocean although the countryside around it isn’t nearly as pretty or as interesting as the areas inland in Tuscany we’ve looked at. It was a gorgeous day and we sat outside in the garden enjoying the view while Roberto, an excellent cook, whipped up a delicious lunch of pasta with eggplant. Throughout the day, Alex’s cell phone kept going off—his ring tone is the sound of car siren!—and we listened in awe as he effortlessly switched between French, Spanish, English and then back to rapid Italian. All this while driving, too. He says his Portuguese is even better than his Spanish and he can speak a little Chinese having lived in Shanghai for a few years.
On the way home, we stopped at the near by town of Talamone to look at the marina, the usual scene with fisherman repairing their nets. When we stopped for coffee in Porte Ercole I had my first maroconini, a coffee, cream and chocolate confection that was absolutely delicious and definitely gave me a buzz. For a moment, I considered making this new drink a regular feature of my day but then I thought hey, I've given up diet coke why take on another possible addiction. And, then, there's always prosecco.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Fava fever
Tonight we went to a new restaurant for us in Trastevere where I discovered a fabulous new food combination. Fava beans with pecorino cheese. Picture this. A huge plate of enormous fava bean pods plunked down in the middle of the table looking like edamame on steroids. You eat them the same way, slitting open the pods and popping the raw fava beans into your mouth but this time accompanied by a bite of pecorino cheese. Highly recommended. I ate so many!
In addition, we ordered another new favorite—puntarella, a Roman seasonal specialty of crisp chopped chicory hearts dressed in a pungent anchovy and oil sauce. Incredibly fresh tasting.
In addition, we ordered another new favorite—puntarella, a Roman seasonal specialty of crisp chopped chicory hearts dressed in a pungent anchovy and oil sauce. Incredibly fresh tasting.
The eternal question
Every day when we come back from tramping through Rome with Elliott and Jeelu, we look forward to getting up on the roof for a “few nibbles” as Steve says before we go out to dinner. The problem is the weather does not cooperate. It’s beautiful and sunny when we’re out on the street but at the end of the day, the clouds come and the temperature goes down.
Tonight is no exception. I’ve left the three of them up there, wrapped in coats pretending to see a non existent sunset while I lay out a spread of cheese, olives and prosciutto to enjoy inside where it’s warm.
The big question tonight is what and where to eat. We’ve done fried artichokes Jewish style at Piperno, crudo and pasta a Le Mani in Pasta, fabulous thin crusted pizza at Dar Poeteca in our neighborhood. Now we have to figure out the right taste and the right location for their last night in Rome.
Such problems.
Tonight is no exception. I’ve left the three of them up there, wrapped in coats pretending to see a non existent sunset while I lay out a spread of cheese, olives and prosciutto to enjoy inside where it’s warm.
The big question tonight is what and where to eat. We’ve done fried artichokes Jewish style at Piperno, crudo and pasta a Le Mani in Pasta, fabulous thin crusted pizza at Dar Poeteca in our neighborhood. Now we have to figure out the right taste and the right location for their last night in Rome.
Such problems.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
Shoe fetish
We haven’t had pasta in three days. When will we begin to experience withdrawal?
Anyway, tonight we vow to eat pasta again. Shall I have pasta con vongole, my favorite, or a cacio e pepe, the local specialty, or maybe I’ll go crazy and order a creamy risotto.
Yesterday I led Steve on another marathon walk across the river, past the Piazza Venezia and all the way up the Via Nazionale to the Piazza della Republica in order to see what remains of the Baths of Diocletian. What remains of a facility that could once accommodate 3,000 hedonists at one time isn’t much. In the mid 16th century, the vast main room was turned into a church with soaring, vaulted ceilings designed by Michelangelo. As with the Baths of Caracalla, most of the statues and wall decorations were removed by later popes and placed in their palaces for private ogling.
This afternoon, while Steve lazed on the terrazzo recovering from yesterday's excursion, I headed uptown again to the Palazzo Barberini which has just reopened after extensive restoration and boasts a collection of i capolavori of Italian art—Raphaello, Carvaggio, Bronzino, etc., etc. etc. There was hardly anyone there so I could feast my eyes on the incredible artwork without jostling for position.
I walked home through the Piazza di Spagna and, I must confess, I bought an amazing pair of shoes—veramente un altro capolavoro del arte italiano. This brings to a total three pair of shoes that I have purchased in the two and a half months I’ve been here—not a bad weekly average. But I make a silent but solemn oath not to even look at another pair of shoes for the four weeks I have left here.
Anyway, tonight we vow to eat pasta again. Shall I have pasta con vongole, my favorite, or a cacio e pepe, the local specialty, or maybe I’ll go crazy and order a creamy risotto.
Yesterday I led Steve on another marathon walk across the river, past the Piazza Venezia and all the way up the Via Nazionale to the Piazza della Republica in order to see what remains of the Baths of Diocletian. What remains of a facility that could once accommodate 3,000 hedonists at one time isn’t much. In the mid 16th century, the vast main room was turned into a church with soaring, vaulted ceilings designed by Michelangelo. As with the Baths of Caracalla, most of the statues and wall decorations were removed by later popes and placed in their palaces for private ogling.
This afternoon, while Steve lazed on the terrazzo recovering from yesterday's excursion, I headed uptown again to the Palazzo Barberini which has just reopened after extensive restoration and boasts a collection of i capolavori of Italian art—Raphaello, Carvaggio, Bronzino, etc., etc. etc. There was hardly anyone there so I could feast my eyes on the incredible artwork without jostling for position.
I walked home through the Piazza di Spagna and, I must confess, I bought an amazing pair of shoes—veramente un altro capolavoro del arte italiano. This brings to a total three pair of shoes that I have purchased in the two and a half months I’ve been here—not a bad weekly average. But I make a silent but solemn oath not to even look at another pair of shoes for the four weeks I have left here.
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
Cicerone in training
I am proud to report that Steve has recently served as cicerone and done a very good job of it. Yesterday, he insisted in leading me on a walk aross the river to the Ghetto, past il Compidoglio, along the Forum and onto the Colosseum. Once there, we stopped for lunch and then I led us to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore and a long walk home through Monti and past Trajan’s market.
Today it was my turn again and despite the pouring rain, Steve agreed to leave the house in the afternoon to walk to Palazzo Venezia in order for me to show him the exhibit of Sebatiano del Piombo. We both got soaking wet walking home but it was worth it. The exhibit was even better the second time.
Tonight was also our second experience of ethnic food in Rome. This time it was Vietnamese cuisine. And once again, I was surprised that the waiters spoke no English but only Italian or French. Food was just OK. Definitely needed additional hot sauce to bring it up to Philly standards.
Today it was my turn again and despite the pouring rain, Steve agreed to leave the house in the afternoon to walk to Palazzo Venezia in order for me to show him the exhibit of Sebatiano del Piombo. We both got soaking wet walking home but it was worth it. The exhibit was even better the second time.
Tonight was also our second experience of ethnic food in Rome. This time it was Vietnamese cuisine. And once again, I was surprised that the waiters spoke no English but only Italian or French. Food was just OK. Definitely needed additional hot sauce to bring it up to Philly standards.
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Life is short
A quiet Sunday in Rome. We didn’t even venture out until late afternoon to get the necessary fresh oranges for next morning’s juice.
We haven’t said anything to each other yet but I know Steve and I are both feeling sad that our days here are slowly slipping away. It seems incredible to me that over two months have passed and that in less than a month Steve will back in Philadelphia and me soon after. I’m already making mental notes as to what I need to do and see before I leave: Must go back to the Borghese Gallery, visit the Vatican Museum, take a trip out to Ostia Antica, visit Augustus’ house on the Palatine, eat a fried artichoke at Piperno, etc. The list grows longer as the time gets shorter.
But of course the whole point of this experience is not what we see and do but how we live here everyday, finding a natural rhythm to our life here, feeling comfortable and at home at Vicolo del Cedro 12.
We haven’t said anything to each other yet but I know Steve and I are both feeling sad that our days here are slowly slipping away. It seems incredible to me that over two months have passed and that in less than a month Steve will back in Philadelphia and me soon after. I’m already making mental notes as to what I need to do and see before I leave: Must go back to the Borghese Gallery, visit the Vatican Museum, take a trip out to Ostia Antica, visit Augustus’ house on the Palatine, eat a fried artichoke at Piperno, etc. The list grows longer as the time gets shorter.
But of course the whole point of this experience is not what we see and do but how we live here everyday, finding a natural rhythm to our life here, feeling comfortable and at home at Vicolo del Cedro 12.
Friday, April 4, 2008
Sing-a-long
I told Nicoletta that the hardest part of learning Italian for me is comprehension. So today she waltzed in—all in red, by the way--with a disc of songs by some soupy Italian rock star. Over and over again, I listened to one bathetic love song, Il Nostra Concerto, while trying to decode the lyrics. At one point, Nicoletta sang to me in a sweet voice. She obviously loves this singer and this particular song.
The two Steves—Solms and Lyons—were off to the Borghese Gallery for the afternoon. We met up at the end of the day in Piazza de Popolo for the requisite prosecco. They cabbed back but I walked home. I’m always trying to figure out new ways to get back to Trastevere from uptown. This time I deliberately bypassed the usual landmarks—Ara Pacis, Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. Zigging and zagging along, I found myself at times on some streets that were new to me. Finally I headed for the river and home.
The two Steves—Solms and Lyons—were off to the Borghese Gallery for the afternoon. We met up at the end of the day in Piazza de Popolo for the requisite prosecco. They cabbed back but I walked home. I’m always trying to figure out new ways to get back to Trastevere from uptown. This time I deliberately bypassed the usual landmarks—Ara Pacis, Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. Zigging and zagging along, I found myself at times on some streets that were new to me. Finally I headed for the river and home.
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Sushi
It must be spring. The older man who sits on the bench at the corner of Vicolo del Cedro has finally taken off his coat—a big, heavy parka with a fur trimmed hood I’ve seen him wear every single day. I notice his little dog is still wearing his knitted jacket. You can’t be too careful.
Two nights ago, Steve and I decided to do something we hadn’t done before—eat ethnic food in Rome. For our first venture into non Italian cuisine, we opted for sushi. Conveniently, there is a well regarded sushi restaurant just a short walk from our house.
I found the whole experience somewhat disorienting. The restaurant reminded me of Shiroi Hana, our go-to sushi joint in Philadelphia. The layout was similar and the clientele the same—lots of yuppie looking diners on dates or slightly older academic types—except they all spoke Italian. The problem was I kept expecting the Japanese staff to speak English but, no surprise, they spoke Italian. For some reason, I found this confusing despite the fact that the sushi was excellent and included all our favorites.
Two nights ago, Steve and I decided to do something we hadn’t done before—eat ethnic food in Rome. For our first venture into non Italian cuisine, we opted for sushi. Conveniently, there is a well regarded sushi restaurant just a short walk from our house.
I found the whole experience somewhat disorienting. The restaurant reminded me of Shiroi Hana, our go-to sushi joint in Philadelphia. The layout was similar and the clientele the same—lots of yuppie looking diners on dates or slightly older academic types—except they all spoke Italian. The problem was I kept expecting the Japanese staff to speak English but, no surprise, they spoke Italian. For some reason, I found this confusing despite the fact that the sushi was excellent and included all our favorites.
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Sempre prosecco
At around 4 o’clock today Steve and I walked out together to sit in the sun and have our daily afternoon prosecco when we discovered something shocking—no alcohol served today in Trastevere until 11 PM. “Perche?" I asked in amazement. Because, I was told, of the soccer match tonight between Manchester and Roma. Must be quite a scene at the stadium.
Whatever. Che sara, sara. We ventured across the bridge to the Piazza Farnese for our drink, not an option to complain about by any means.
Yesterday was yet another touristic marathon sponsored by Ellen and Steve Solms this time for the benefit of Linda Loeber. We crossed the river, walked down the Circus Maximus, admired the Arch of Constantine, circumnavigated the outside of the Colosseum, and then after a refreshing lunch of crudo and cozze, were astounded by the Basilica of San Clemente. The church dates from the 12th century (don’t quote me here) but is built on the ruins of an ancient Mithraic temple. As you descend some 30ft. below the church floor you are literally going back, back, back into time. It’s a thrilling and mysterious experience and one that Steve and I vowed to revisit before we leave.
Linda and I then walked on to San Giovanni in Laterno, a huge Renaissance church and, not ready to call it quits, pressed onward to the Cathedral of Santa Maria in Maggiore. Whew! Finally there was the long walk back past the Forum, Piazza Venezia, il Campidoglio, the Ghetto, across the bridge to Trastevere. Somehow we roused ourselves for dinner. God forbid, we should miss a meal.
Whatever. Che sara, sara. We ventured across the bridge to the Piazza Farnese for our drink, not an option to complain about by any means.
Yesterday was yet another touristic marathon sponsored by Ellen and Steve Solms this time for the benefit of Linda Loeber. We crossed the river, walked down the Circus Maximus, admired the Arch of Constantine, circumnavigated the outside of the Colosseum, and then after a refreshing lunch of crudo and cozze, were astounded by the Basilica of San Clemente. The church dates from the 12th century (don’t quote me here) but is built on the ruins of an ancient Mithraic temple. As you descend some 30ft. below the church floor you are literally going back, back, back into time. It’s a thrilling and mysterious experience and one that Steve and I vowed to revisit before we leave.
Linda and I then walked on to San Giovanni in Laterno, a huge Renaissance church and, not ready to call it quits, pressed onward to the Cathedral of Santa Maria in Maggiore. Whew! Finally there was the long walk back past the Forum, Piazza Venezia, il Campidoglio, the Ghetto, across the bridge to Trastevere. Somehow we roused ourselves for dinner. God forbid, we should miss a meal.
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