Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Sempre prosecco

At around 4 o’clock today Steve and I walked out together to sit in the sun and have our daily afternoon prosecco when we discovered something shocking—no alcohol served today in Trastevere until 11 PM. “Perche?" I asked in amazement. Because, I was told, of the soccer match tonight between Manchester and Roma. Must be quite a scene at the stadium.

Whatever. Che sara, sara. We ventured across the bridge to the Piazza Farnese for our drink, not an option to complain about by any means.

Yesterday was yet another touristic marathon sponsored by Ellen and Steve Solms this time for the benefit of Linda Loeber. We crossed the river, walked down the Circus Maximus, admired the Arch of Constantine, circumnavigated the outside of the Colosseum, and then after a refreshing lunch of crudo and cozze, were astounded by the Basilica of San Clemente. The church dates from the 12th century (don’t quote me here) but is built on the ruins of an ancient Mithraic temple. As you descend some 30ft. below the church floor you are literally going back, back, back into time. It’s a thrilling and mysterious experience and one that Steve and I vowed to revisit before we leave.

Linda and I then walked on to San Giovanni in Laterno, a huge Renaissance church and, not ready to call it quits, pressed onward to the Cathedral of Santa Maria in Maggiore. Whew! Finally there was the long walk back past the Forum, Piazza Venezia, il Campidoglio, the Ghetto, across the bridge to Trastevere. Somehow we roused ourselves for dinner. God forbid, we should miss a meal.

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